Moveable feasts: reflections on Shanghai’s street food.

Shanghai’s officials and urban planners often equate development with “cleaning up the streets.” The snacks (xiao chi 小吃) that are sold from the small shops and mobile stands—dumplings steamed in wooden baskets, nighttime barbeques, carts selling stir-fried noodles—are seen to belong to a past that...

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Publicado en:Food, Culture & Society Vol. 21; no. 1; pp. 75 - 89
Autor principal: Greenspan, Anna
Formato: Artículo
Publicado: Taylor & Francis Ltd Feb2018
Materias:
Acceso en línea:Ver este registro en EBSCOhost
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        atl: Moveable feasts: reflections on Shanghai’s street food.
      aug:
        au: Greenspan, Anna
        affil: Interactive Media Arts, New York University Shanghai, Shanghai
      su:
        Shanghai (China)
        China
        Urban growth
        Black market
        Urbanization
        Street food
        Social conditions in China
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          Urban growth
          Black market
          Urbanization
          Shanghai (China)
          China
          Land Subdivision
          Street food
          Social conditions in China
      keyword:
        development
        formalization
        informal
        markets
        Shanghai
        street food
        urban
        development
        formalization
        informal
        markets
        Shanghai
        street food
        urban
      ab: Shanghai’s officials and urban planners often equate development with “cleaning up the streets.” The snacks (xiao chi 小吃) that are sold from the small shops and mobile stands—dumplings steamed in wooden baskets, nighttime barbeques, carts selling stir-fried noodles—are seen to belong to a past that must be overcome. This paper reflects on the changing fate of Shanghai’s street food in order to analyze tensions between a regulated, formal commercial sector and a much more anarchic informal economy as it plays out in the making of the future city. It argues that the informal is not simply a temporary phenomenon, and that the evolutionary conception of economic growth in which a “backward” black market progresses to a more “advanced” formal sphere masks a deep (and sometimes violent) struggle. Shanghai’s importance as a model for twenty-first century urbanism rests not only on its high-speed trains and super-tall skyscrapers, but also, just as vitally, on its street food, street markets and street life.
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      doctype: Article
      src: R
    language: English
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