The Crutchley Archive: Red Colours on Wool Fabrics from Master Dyers, London 1716–1744.
The Crutchley Archive is a rare book collection with over a thousand dyeing instructions and colourful dyed patterns from an eighteenth-century wool fabric dyeing business in Southwark, London, owned by John Crutchley and his family. Our research of the outstandingly detailed dyeing materials and me...
| Published in: | Textile History Vol. 51; no. 2; pp. 119 - 167 |
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| Main Authors: | , , |
| Format: | Article |
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Taylor & Francis Ltd
Nov2020
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| Subjects: | |
| Online Access: | View this record in EBSCOhost |
| fields | @attributes: recordID: 1 pdfLink: plink: https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=hlh&AN=149223861&site=ehost-live header: @attributes: shortDbName: hlh uiTerm: 149223861 longDbName: Humanities International Complete uiTag: AN controlInfo: bkinfo: jinfo: jid: 00404969 PKI jtl: Textile History issn: 00404969 maglogo: N pubinfo: dt: Nov2020 vid: 51 iid: 2 pid: 377 pub: Taylor & Francis Ltd artinfo: ui: 149223861 10.1080/00404969.2020.1799731 ppf: 119 ppct: 48 formats: fmt: – @attributes: type: T – @attributes: type: P size: 4.7MB tig: atl: The Crutchley Archive: Red Colours on Wool Fabrics from Master Dyers, London 1716–1744. aug: au: Quye, Anita Cardon, Dominique Paul, Jenny Balfour su: Dyes & dyeing Cash transactions Wool textiles Rare books Colorimetry sug: subj: Dyes & dyeing Cash transactions Wool textiles Rare books Colorimetry ab: The Crutchley Archive is a rare book collection with over a thousand dyeing instructions and colourful dyed patterns from an eighteenth-century wool fabric dyeing business in Southwark, London, owned by John Crutchley and his family. Our research of the outstandingly detailed dyeing materials and methods by text study, dyed textile history, dye analysis and colorimetry reveals unprecedented insight for 'in grain' and 'out of grain' dyeing of medium to high quality wool fabric using cochineal, stick lac, madder and other dyes, and shows the dyers to be skilled colourists. Other novel discoveries are instructions translated from Flemish or Old Dutch into English, a range of dyed patterns with broadcloth 'lists' (distinctive selvedges) and monogrammed dyeing calculations. Customer cash transactions were from 5s to £2,586. This research has resulted in UNESCO Memory of the World Programme recognition of the Crutchley Archive as significant documentary heritage for UK textile history. pubtype: Academic Journal doctype: Article src: R language: English refInfo: copyright: @attributes: flag: Y custom: Copyright of Textile History is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. item: Textile History holder: Taylor & Francis Ltd dt: @attributes: year: 2020 holdings: @attributes: islocal: N |
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