The Crutchley Archive: Red Colours on Wool Fabrics from Master Dyers, London 1716–1744.

The Crutchley Archive is a rare book collection with over a thousand dyeing instructions and colourful dyed patterns from an eighteenth-century wool fabric dyeing business in Southwark, London, owned by John Crutchley and his family. Our research of the outstandingly detailed dyeing materials and me...

Full description

Bibliographic Details
Published in:Textile History Vol. 51; no. 2; pp. 119 - 167
Main Authors: Quye, Anita, Cardon, Dominique, Paul, Jenny Balfour
Format: Article
Published: Taylor & Francis Ltd Nov2020
Subjects:
Online Access:View this record in EBSCOhost
fields @attributes:
  recordID: 1
pdfLink:
plink: https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=hlh&AN=149223861&site=ehost-live
header:
  @attributes:
    shortDbName: hlh
    uiTerm: 149223861
    longDbName: Humanities International Complete
    uiTag: AN
  controlInfo:
    bkinfo:
    jinfo:
      jid:
        00404969
        PKI
      jtl: Textile History
      issn: 00404969
      maglogo: N
    pubinfo:
      dt: Nov2020
      vid: 51
      iid: 2
      pid: 377
      pub: Taylor & Francis Ltd
    artinfo:
      ui:
        149223861
        10.1080/00404969.2020.1799731
      ppf: 119
      ppct: 48
      formats:
        fmt:
          – @attributes:
              type: T
          – @attributes:
              type: P
              size: 4.7MB
      tig:
        atl: The Crutchley Archive: Red Colours on Wool Fabrics from Master Dyers, London 1716–1744.
      aug:
        au:
          Quye, Anita
          Cardon, Dominique
          Paul, Jenny Balfour
      su:
        Dyes & dyeing
        Cash transactions
        Wool textiles
        Rare books
        Colorimetry
      sug:
        subj:
          Dyes & dyeing
          Cash transactions
          Wool textiles
          Rare books
          Colorimetry
      ab: The Crutchley Archive is a rare book collection with over a thousand dyeing instructions and colourful dyed patterns from an eighteenth-century wool fabric dyeing business in Southwark, London, owned by John Crutchley and his family. Our research of the outstandingly detailed dyeing materials and methods by text study, dyed textile history, dye analysis and colorimetry reveals unprecedented insight for 'in grain' and 'out of grain' dyeing of medium to high quality wool fabric using cochineal, stick lac, madder and other dyes, and shows the dyers to be skilled colourists. Other novel discoveries are instructions translated from Flemish or Old Dutch into English, a range of dyed patterns with broadcloth 'lists' (distinctive selvedges) and monogrammed dyeing calculations. Customer cash transactions were from 5s to £2,586. This research has resulted in UNESCO Memory of the World Programme recognition of the Crutchley Archive as significant documentary heritage for UK textile history.
      pubtype: Academic Journal
      doctype: Article
      src: R
    language: English
    refInfo:
    copyright:
      @attributes:
        flag: Y
      custom: Copyright of Textile History is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites without the copyright holder's express written permission. Additionally, content may not be used with any artificial intelligence tools or machine learning technologies. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use.
      item: Textile History
      holder: Taylor & Francis Ltd
      dt:
        @attributes:
          year: 2020
    holdings:
      @attributes:
        islocal: N