Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes.

The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers. A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and a...

Descripción completa

Detalles Bibliográficos
Publicado en:Physical Therapy in Sport Vol. 65; pp. 122 - 130
Autores principales: Son, Somang, Seo, Yongsuk, Son, Jungjun, Yun, Somi, Lee, Dae Taek
Formato: research Journal Article
Publicado: Elsevier B.V. Jan2024
Acceso en línea:Ver este registro en EBSCOhost
fields @attributes:
  recordID: 1
pdfLink:
plink: https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&db=ccm&AN=174915947&site=ehost-live
header:
  @attributes:
    shortDbName: ccm
    uiTerm: 174915947
    longDbName: CINAHL Complete
    uiTag: AN
  controlInfo:
    bkinfo:
    dissinfo:
    jinfo:
      jid:
        1466853X
        ILO
      jtl: Physical Therapy in Sport
      issn: 1466853X
      maglogo: N
    pubinfo:
      dt: Jan2024
      vid: 65
      pid: 82545
      pub: Elsevier B.V.
      place: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
    artinfo:
      ui:
        174915947
        174915947
        174915947
        10.1016/j.ptsp.2023.12.007
        174915947
      ppf: 122
      ppct: 8
      formats:
      tig:
        atl: Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes.
      aug:
        au:
          Son, Somang
          Seo, Yongsuk
          Son, Jungjun
          Yun, Somi
          Lee, Dae Taek
        affil: Exercise Physiology Laboratory, Kookmin University, Seoul, Republic of Korea
      sug:
        subj:
          Grip Strength Evaluation
          Fingers Physiology
          Forearm Anatomy and Histology
          Rock Climbing Physiology
          Muscle, Skeletal Physiology
          Athletic Training Methods
          Recovery, Exercise Physiology
          Training Effect (Physiology) Evaluation
          Human
          Male
          Scales
          Sports
          Male
      ab: The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers. A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape. The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms. Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC. • Advanced class climbers have stronger finger flexor strength. • Recovery time was shortest in advanced class climbers, followed by intermediate and low-class climbers. • A positive correlation was found between climbing classes and forearm circumference. • Finger flexor strength could serve as a reliable predictor for climbing classes.
      pubtype: Academic Journal
      doctype:
        research
        Journal Article
      ougenre: Article
    language: English
    refInfo:
    holdings:
      @attributes:
        islocal: N