Çiğköfte and Lahmacun in the history of emotions: the construction of emotional communities by taste and smell in Turkey.

This article analyzes how traditional foods such as çiğköfte and lahmacun affected social class distinctions and the formation of affective communities in Turkey in the 1980s and 1990s. Within the framework of Barbara Rosenwein's theories of "emotional communities" and William M. Reddy's theories of...

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Bibliographic Details
Published in:Food, Culture & Society Vol. 29; no. 3; pp. 744 - 766
Main Author: Kanik, Ilkay
Format: Article
Published: Taylor & Francis Ltd Jun2026
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Online Access:View this record in EBSCOhost
Description
Summary:This article analyzes how traditional foods such as çiğköfte and lahmacun affected social class distinctions and the formation of affective communities in Turkey in the 1980s and 1990s. Within the framework of Barbara Rosenwein's theories of "emotional communities" and William M. Reddy's theories of "emotional regimes" and "emotional refuge," the paper analyzes how these foods foster the production of a derogatory and condescending language and emotions. The study shows how the rapidly changing socio-economic structure in post-1980's Turkey contributed to the increase in derogatory language in the media. Despite the marginalization of the lower classes, çiğköfte and lahmacun have become a symbol of resistance and resilience for these classes. Acı taste has functioned as an "emotional refuge" for individuals escaping from the oppression of normative regimes. As a result, the economic hardship and social exclusion experienced by the lower classes led to the symbolization of acı taste as a feeling that was difficult to cope with, and these foods were used as a tool to render social class differences invisible. The study makes a new contribution to this field by addressing the relationship between food and emotion studies from a historical perspective.